In the beginning, there was fire. Well, not the very beginning, but that element has become so useful in our evolution since then, some places like FYR Cycene Ond Drinc – pronounced ‘fire kitchen and drink’ – have continued the tradition of using an open fire to cook. Using lychee wood in their Josper charcoal oven, most dishes have a sweet, smoky flavour.

Sitting along Telok Ayer’s busy Boon Tat Street, FYR has a warm vibe suited to those needing post-work fuel. The mod­ern European kitchen that insists on not being called ‘fusion’ is instead influenced by Asian spices. With earthy colours and a mural paying tribute to the birth of fire, most of the dishes found here have a spicy, carnivorous feel to them. Dishes are served on thin charcoal-coloured stone slabs, the edges stylishly chipped.

To begin, baked shucked oysters ($15) sitting with an orange coat of chilli and garlic – making an easier dish for those afraid of the smell of the sea that some­times comes with oysters.

Served in half a bone, the baked bone marrow ($15) with veal sweetbreads comes with a spicy coating, and a side of toasted bread to offer more texture. Marrow on its own can be off-putting for some, so treating it like pâté can work a treat.

FYR’s grain-fed ribeye ($32) didn’t need the java curry sauce offered on the side, being properly cooked at a tender medi­um-rare. The small pot of buttery mashed potato is always a welcomed extra.

The grilled fresh fruit juice ($4.50) is grilled before juicing. The pineapple juice had a noticeable sweetness considering its roasting beforehand.

The restaurant’s pride and joy, the baked pistachio melt and pandan ice cream ($10), was a sweet finish. The warmth of the lava cake, sitting in a moat of green lava, goes great with the home­made pandan ice-cream – that takes 24 hours to make.

Nights get busy with their all-day happy hour deal, and the neighbour­hood offers more to continue the night if there’s still fire in your eyes for more.

FYR Cycene Ond Drinc
19 Boon Tat Street